Flores, Guatemala: Travel Guide to Colonial Charm & Jungle Ruins
Let’s be honest: most people put Flores on their itinerary only as a pitstop for Tikal. You fly in, sleep, see the ruins, fly out. And, yes, Tikal is absolutely worth crossing the country for.
But here’s the thing: Flores itself deserves more credit than it gets – it has the colorful colonial charm, jungle ruins, lakeside sunsets and plenty of really good restaurants and bars.
Flores sits on a small island in the middle of Lake Petén Itzá in northern Guatemala, connected to the mainland by a single narrow causeway. It’s small, colorful, and almost absurdly charming. Imagine narrow cobblestone streets, brightly colored houses with gorgeous flower displays in the windows, and terraces with jaw-dropping lake views in every direction.
It’s the kind of place that looks like it was designed specifically to be photographed, except it’s been here long before Instagram had anything to say about it.
Getting to Flores
The easiest and most sensible way to get to Flores is by flying. There are daily flights from Guatemala City (GUA) that take less than an hour. TAG and Avianca both cover this route regularly, and the prices are reasonable if you book ahead.
The airport, Mundo Maya International (FRS), sits about 10 minutes from the island. Here’s where a lot of visitors, including myself, make their first mistake: they book a shuttle taxi. Sounds convenient, right? Wrong. Shuttle vans or taxis will drop you off at the entrance to Flores and from there you’ll either have to get a tuk-tuk or walk to your hotel.
PRO TIP: Get a tuk-tuk straight from the airport to your hotel entrance. They fit your bags, won’t break the bank and, mostly importantly, deliver you straight to your hotel. Did I mention they are fun?
Alternatively, buses and shared shuttles are available from Guatemala City if you’re traveling on a tighter budget, though the journey takes around eight to ten hours.
Things to Do in Flores
Wander Around the Colorful Streets
Flores is such a gorgeous little town. It’s small enough to walk end to end in about 20 minutes, but it rewards slow, aimless exploration.
The streets wind uphill through sun-soaked painted buildings, past little shops that sell local crafts, cute cafes, and street food stalls. Grab a coffee or a cold beer, find a bench by the water and watch boats zip across the lake. In the evening, settle into one of the restaurants overlooking the lake for a beautiful sunset.
Take a Boat Ride on the Lake
One of the most pleasant ways to spend a morning in Flores is on the water. Local boatmen offer short trips around Lake Petén Itzá – you can visit the ARCAS wildlife rescue center, stop at the small museum right in the middle of the lake, or take a slow loop around to the village of San Miguel. The lake is calm and beautiful, and it costs next to nothing to rent a lancha (small boat) for an hour or two.
Pro Tip: Plan your tours for early mornings, as Flores is known for almost unbearable heat and humidity, especially in the month of April.
Ak’tun Kan Caves
Just outside the town of Santa Elena, a town located directly next to Flores, are Ak’tun Kan Caves. These limestone caves make for a fascinating half-day excursion. The cave system stretches deep underground, and the stalactite and stalagmite formations are genuinely impressive. Some of them are named after animals by the local guides. It’s easy to combine these caves with the ARCAS rescue center for a full day out.
ARCAS Animal Rescue Center
ARCAS is a wildlife rescue and rehabilitation organization operating on the shores of the lake – it’s a short 10-minute boat ride from the tourist part of Flores. You can visit and take a guided tour, coming face to face with rescued spider monkeys, macaws, parrots, toucans, and other animals that have been confiscated from the illegal wildlife trade.
ARCAS is accredited by the Global Federation of Animal Sanctuaries as having met the highest standard in humane animal care. You can read about them here. This is a great activity for families with kids – show them wild animals in an ethical way.
Jorge’s Rope Swing
After the visit to ARCAS wildlife rescue, head across the lake to the village of San Andrés to Jorge’s rope swing. Here you can spend an hour or two swinging over the water. It’s simple and fun.
Ixpanpajul Nature Park
About 10 minutes outside Flores, Ixpanpajul is a private nature reserve with suspension bridges hanging through the jungle canopy. There are zip lines and night safari tours too if you want to push the adrenaline a bit further. You can also go horseback riding or opt for a tractor ride.
Or simply rent a cabin for the night so you can wake up to the roar of howler monkeys. It’s a great place to visit for families with kids or adventure lovers.
Day Trips from Flores
Tikal – The Reason You’re Here
Tikal is one of the greatest archaeological sites in the world. This ancient Maya city, buried deep in the Petén jungle, features towering limestone temples rising above the forest canopy, spider monkeys swinging through the trees overhead, and pretty incredible sunrises. Temple IV, in particular, is the highest structure in the ancient Maya world and offers a view over the jungle that you will remember for a very long time.
If you want to read more about what it’s like to visit this majestic site at sunrise – head over here.
Flores is the gateway to Tikal, just about an hour away by shuttle. Most tours pick you up before dawn for the sunrise visit, which is absolutely worth the early alarm.
The jungle waking up around you as the mist lifts off the temples is the kind of experience travel memories are made of. Book ahead, through your hotel or any of the operators along the main strip.
The site gets very busy by mid-morning. Going early isn’t just for the atmosphere; it’s also the only time you’ll have the temples largely to yourself. And most importantly, you’ll leave the park before the afternoon heat goes into full sauna effect.
Visit Yaxha Ruins – Tikal’s Underrated Cousin at Sunset
If you didn’t get enough of ancient ruins while visiting Tikal, then you should check out Yaxha archeological site. This lesser-known Maya city sits on a ridge above lake Yaxha and offers unforgettable sunset views away from the crowds. If you watched Survivor Guatemala (back in 2005, no judgment), yes, this is that Yaxha. The ruins themselves are beautiful and extensive, though less restored than Tikal, which actually adds to the magic.
They are located a bit further than Tikal, but still a short (75 minute) shuttle ride from Flores.
Where to Eat in Flores
For such a small place, Flores punches impressively above its weight in the food department. The street facing the lake is lined with restaurants and bars that all seem to have terraces over the water, which means that practically anywhere you eat, you’re eating with a view. Here are the places worth making a beeline for.
Maracuya
This place is stunning. It has so many cozy nooks that choosing where to sit is a remarkably difficult decision. It has a lakeside terrace, a cute little balcony and a beautiful modern bar. The food is also amazing – they have anything from smoothies, freshly squeezed juices, Frappuccino’s and Mexican micheladas to breakfast plates, waffles, pastas and burgers, and traditional Guatemalan food. It truly has it all.
Maple & Tocino
This place was so much fun and oh so many calories were consumed. It’s the breakfast institution of Flores. Show up, get the fluffy pancakes, order an omelet and indulge in their coffee. Their signature drink, milkshake – made with three scoops of ice cream, topped with a homemade fresh donut and whipped cream – is simply divine. Did I have two of them? Yes. Yes, I absolutely did.
Delirio
Delirio is a relaxed and unpretentious spot offering a creative menu with local ingredients. Great for a long breakfast or lunch when you’re not rushing anywhere.
Terrazzo
Terrazzo is a rooftop Italian restaurant that offers panoramic views of the lake – a perfect spot to watch the sunset. The food here is very good and so is the service.
Street Food
Beyond the restaurants, don’t overlook the local street food stalls. There is a good selection of such eateries on the main square (Parque Central) in front of the Flores Cathedral. Spend an afternoon here, get a traditional Guatemalan snack or ice cream, find a bench and enjoy people watching.
Where to Go After Flores
Flores sits in an area that makes continuing your journey truly exciting. Heading east toward Belize is a natural next step – cross-border shuttles run regularly to San Ignacio, a charming jungle town with its own Mayan ruins, caves, and river tubing. Or keep going to the coast for Caye Caulker, Belize’s famously relaxed island with the unofficial motto “go slow.”
If you’re looking north, the Mexican Yucatán Peninsula is also reachable by shuttle – Bacalar, Palenque, Tulum, Mérida – these options are excellent additions to your Central America itinerary and the road trip through the jungle is an adventure in itself.
Or if Flores and Tikal are your first stops in your Guatemala itinerary, then make your way to Antigua, Acatenango Volcano and Lake Atitlán.
Read about hiking the Acatenango Volcano here.
A Few Final Notes Before You Go
Flores is extremely safe for travelers, and the locals are so warm and welcoming. The quetzal (GTQ) is the local currency, and while some places accept dollars, having quetzales makes life easier. ATMs are available in Santa Elena on the mainland.
Two to three nights is probably the sweet spot for Flores. It’s enough time to visit Tikal, add a second tour, try some of the best restaurants, and actually absorb the place rather than just pass through.
So, pack your bags happy travels! May your temples be tall and your cocktails be cold.
